Showing posts with label risotto. Show all posts
Showing posts with label risotto. Show all posts

Thursday, July 14, 2011

All about risotto

As a young child, on the rare occasion that we would eat out, a strange thing would happen. Without even trying, the first thing that sounded good to me, the first thing I would point out that I wanted, was usually, with rare exception, the most expensive thing on the menu.
Now, my dad likes to try new things. My mom doesn't. She does now a lot more, but as a general rule, she doesn't. Somehow I inherited the desire to try new things from my dad. There are very few things that scare me when it comes to food. I said food, not disgusting combinations people come up with to see if they can make you sick. Also, if it is a part of the animal that is not consumed in civilized cultures, I will probably pass.
I will try just about anything. I love to give everything a shot just once. I tried elk steak the other day for the first time. I have to say it tasted just like very lean beef, but anyway.
I am very glad to say that my husband is usually game to try anything also. Especially if I tell him it is good, or I think he would like it. That makes eating out and eating in general fun for the both of us. Many times, we will order two things on the menu that we both want to try and split them.
One thing my husband is not crazy about is mushrooms. When we were first married, well maybe it was a few years into it, I made a cream of mushroom soup. Not from a can, like real soup. I liked it. He didn't. He wouldn't even finish his. I even made these yummy cheese-topped crostini to go along with it, but nope. It just wasn't his thing. I like mushrooms. He will eat them with steak, but other than that, he'd rather just skip it. So, when I found a recipe for wild mushroom risotto, I thought I should pass. A whole dish devoted to mushrooms probably wouldn't be a good idea. But the risotto sounded amazing. I thought about just leaving them out, but when a whole dish is built around something you don't like, maybe you should just find another recipe.
I forgot about it. My husband and I ate at a restaurant and my fish came with risotto as a side. I had never had risotto, but I knew that was not it. Risotto is made with a special kind of rice, and constantly stirred, so it becomes creamy. This was long-grain rice that had some cheese added to it. I bent over and whispered in my husband's ear, "This is not risotto!" I was a little miffed, but it just reminded me that I wanted to make it at home.
Then, just a few months later, my copy of Saveur magazine was all about butter. I have to say it was an issue I really enjoyed. Lo, and behold, there was a recipe for risotto. Just plain risotto with butter, saffron, and Parmesan cheese. I made it. We loved it. End of story. If you have never made/had risotto you have got to try this. It is unbelievably creamy, buttery and just all around delicious. I have to admit before I had it I wondered what all the hoopla was about risotto. Now I know. And you should, too.

Risotto Alla Milanese
SERVES 4
In Le Ricette Regionali Italiane (Solares, 1967), which contains the recipe on which this one is based, the food historian Anna Gosetti della Salda points out that the original formula for butter-rich risotto alla milanese is a subject of dispute. Some say wine was a key ingredient, others question whether saffron has always been included, but few dispute that you should sauté the rice before adding liquid and stir in extra butter at the end.
6 cups Chicken Stock
1⁄8 tsp. saffron threads
9 tbsp. unsalted butter (I always use salted)
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 cups vialone or arborio rice
1 cup grated grana padano (Parmasan cheese)
1. Bring stock to a bare simmer in a saucepan over medium heat. Put saffron and 1⁄2 cup hot stock into a small bowl; cover and set aside to let soften. Cover stock; keep hot.
2. Heat 5 tbsp. butter in a medium pot over medium heat. Add onions; cook, stirring, until softened, 2–3 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until opaque, about 4 minutes.
3. Add 1⁄2 cup stock; cook, stirring often, until stock is mostly absorbed, 2–3 minutes. Add another 1⁄2 cup stock; repeat process until all the stock is used, about 25 minutes total. Continue cooking rice until just al dente, about 3 minutes more. Strain saffron from stock over a bowl; set saffron aside. Pour saffron-infused stock into rice and cook, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Gently stir in saffron threads. Remove from heat; stir in remaining butter and half the grated cheese. Serve risotto with remaining cheese on the side.

Friday, June 24, 2011

Fried Golden

This past Easter I was planning the menu, and, of course, on occasions like this I like to try new recipes, but at the same time, I try to take into consideration the fact that a lot of people don't have the same tastes as I do, and may not appreciate something I want to try my hand making. That said, I made a short list of appetizers I could make. I knew we would all be coming back from church and would have an hour to an hour and a half with nothing to eat without them. I don't know about you, but our families tend to be pretty hungry after church, so I felt we needed an appetizer. So, I made a short list, and went over it with my husband. I decided something with mostly advance preparation would be best, so I wouldn't spend a lot of time on that.
We settled on two items:
Golden Ravioli with Arrabbiata Sauce
Arancini di Riso
Now, don't look at the name and think "I won't like that". The first recipe is, essentially, frozen raviolis that are dredged in cornmeal (totally not complicated) and fried. They are served with a spicy marinara. The second recipe is a little more complicated, but amazingly delicious. Mozzarella and risotto balls that are also dredged in cornmeal and fried. I set out a mild marinara, also, because not everybody likes hot stuff. I used my homemade marinara, that I make in large batches and keep in the freezer for such a time as this, and added some Tabasco, cayenne, chipotle powder, and a bit of chili flakes for the spicy. Warmed them both in the microwave just before serving.
One reason I chose these recipes is because my husband's grandfather can't have gluten. The risotto balls are dredged with a tiny bit of flour mixed into the cornmeal, but I omitted it for him. I have to say these appetizers were a huge hit. For about two weeks straight my husband kept asking me to make it again and again, because he knew I had more of the raviolis in the freezer. The risotto balls can be completely made the day ahead, and kept covered with plastic wrap in the fridge. You dredge them just before frying and you have a quick, hot appetizer.
Both of these recipes, with a few minor alterations, can be found in Martha Stewart's Hor d'oeuvres Handbook,  including a recipe for the arrabbiata sauce.

I am not going to include a recipe for the fried ravioli, just a synopsis. I used grilled chicken and mozzarella raviolis. Thaw (if frozen) in your fridge overnight. Dredge 24 raviolis in about 1/2 cup cornmeal. Heat oil in a deep pot, at about medium-high heat. Fry turning once for 1 to 2 minutes. Drain on a paper towel. Sprinkle with coarsly ground salt.

The risotto balls entail a little more work. You need to start this the day before, or up to two days. Make the risotto, allow it to cool completely, form into balls, and refrigerate until you are ready to fry them.

Arancini di Riso

4 cups chicken stock
1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 large shallots, finely chopped
1 cup Arborio rice
1/2 cup white wine (or additional chicken stock)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 Tablespoons chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, finely grated (1/4 cup)
1 ounce mozzarella cheese, cut into 36 1/4-inch cubes (1 oz is the size of a string cheese)
1/2 cup flour (omit for gluten-free recipe)
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup yellow cornmeal
oil for frying

Bring chicken stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Keep covered and warm on low heat.
heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice to the pan and cook, stirring, until the edges of the rice become translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until nearly all the wine is absorbed into the rice, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 cup of the stock and 1/2 teaspoon of salt and cook, stirring constantly until nearly  all of the stock is absorbed, 3 to 5 minutes. Continue adding the stock,, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly, until the rice is creamy but still firm, about 20 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and season with pepper. Stir in the parsley and Parmesan. Remove from the heat and transfer to a large bowl. Allow the rice to cool completely, stirring occasionally. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm and thoroughly chilled, 3 to 4 hours or overnight.
Line to baking sheets with parchment. Place 1 Tablespoon of the risotto in the palm of your hand and form it into a shallow cup. Place 1 cube of the cheese in the center of the rice. Enclose the cheese with the risotto to form a ball. Place on the baking sheet. Repeat with remaining risotto. Refrigerate until ready to proceed.
Combine the flour (if using), 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon of pepper in a shallow bowl. Place the eggs and cornmeal in two separate shallow bowls. roll the risotto balls first in the flour, gently shaking off any excess, then dip into the egg mixture, then lightly coat with cornmeal. Place them on the second baking sheet. The risotto balls can be refrigerated at this stage until ready to fry.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium high heat. Fry until golden, 1 to 2 minutes.

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