Saturday, June 12, 2010

Make Mayonnaise

What are your feelings about mayonnaise? It seems that it is a necessity that stays in its sacred place in our fridges, to bring a bit of moisture to the occasional sandwich or bring a potato, macaroni or chicken salad together with its rich creaminess.
You might love mayo, hate it, or live somewhere in between and allow its presence on the exceptionally dry sandwich.
I am typically #3. I am not a big fan, and if a restaurant piles it on I will remove the excess, but I don't hate it, either. I think it has its place in the culinary world.
As a child, I really, really liked mayonnaise. I loaded tuna with it and put it on everything from bologna sandwiches to hot dogs and hamburgers. Maybe I overdid it. Within a few years I didn't like mayo at all. I could barely tolerate its presence-I would rather eat my sandwiches dry. I kept it in my fridge for the occasion recipe, but otherwise almost never used it.
One day, I read in a cookbook about homemade mayonnaise. The author encouraged you to try it even if you were not a big fan. A spark was ignited in me. To create this culinary wonder seemed like a task I wanted to accomplish. The ingredients were simple, the technique was a little finicky, but I was sure I could do it. The first batch I made I did completely by hand-no food processor or blender. I admit, it was a process, but so rewarding. I tried the trembling, silky stuff on a carrot. I know that sounds a little gross, but it was really good.  I couldn't believe how good. This was not your ordinary mayonnaise. First of all, it wasn't a stiff, eggshell-colored substance, it was much softer, and had more yellow in it. Secondly, it had flavor! I don't really think store-bought mayo has that much flavor. This stuff was almost buttery.
I made BLT's for me and my husband and loaded them with mayo. It was awesome! When you whip that stuff into a dip or dressing, it adds so much more depth than what you are used to. The perfect balance of flavors is so delicious.
I have not purchased mayonnaise in quite sometime. I make up a double batch and we use it up pretty quickly. You can whisk in a little lemon juice and some chopped herbs and drizzle it over chicken and pasta and you have an outstanding gourmet sauce. Many other sauces are a form of mayonnaise, which is really just an emulsion of eggs and oil. Bearnaise and hollandaise use butter instead of vegetable oil and are just so good. I do possess an incredible hollandaise recipe that I will probably divulge at some time in the future, but for now, make some mayonnaise. Oh, also, aiolis, which are just mayonnaise with garlic and a few other spices of your choice are also wonderful for everything from French Fries to drizzling over meats and vegetables.
Let you explorations of mayonnaise begin!


Mayonnaise
Makes 2 1/2 cups

2 egg yolks at room temperature
1 egg at room temperature
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon water
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
pinch of freshly ground pepper
2 cups vegetable oil

I like to use a food processor. You can also use a food processor if you prefer.
Fit food processor with steel blade. Combine the egg yolks, egg, mustard, water, lemon juice, vinegar, sugar, kosher salt, and pepper in the bowl and process until well mixed. With the motor running, add the oil through the feed tube drop b drop so the eggs and oil will combine smoothly. After emulsification has begun and mayonnaise starts to hold together, pour in the oil in a slow, steady stream. When all the oil has been added, shut off the motor and scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Orange You Glad?

Do you ever find yourself buying an ingredient because it looks fun or you really want to try it? Or you use one tablespoon of an ingredient, only to be left with an entire jar of tahini paste, unsure of what to do with the leftovers? I used to do that all the time (and still do more often than I would like to admit), but recently I have been trying to find recipes that use all of the abnormal ingredient.
I like recipes that use all of the special ingredient, or perhaps some suggestions on what to do with the leftovers, so I don't have a giant bottle of fish paste in my fridge for the next three years, or until I have moved so many times I finally just decide to throw it away.
When I ran across this recipe, I fell in love instantly. To be completely honest, I saw it on the Food Network. If I am ever at a hotel or friends house I absolutely cannot tear myself away. I sit in front of the TV for hours watching reruns of Emeril's homemade sausage or Iron Chef America. I could watch food tv all day! Anyway, this dish looked absolutely amazing, so I decided to try it. The recipe originally called for pork tenderloin, but I used chicken instead, because that was what I had readily available.
The chicken is threaded onto skewers and drenched in a spicy orange marmalade sauce. It is grilled outdoors or you could use and indoor grill, or, my favorite, just broil it. More spicy-sweet sauce is lathered on, leaving you with a delicious, fire-kissed skewer with a bit of caramelized jam and burnt orange dancing on your tongue.
I made a few changes, like pumping up the jalapeño flavor a bit and I served this heavenly chicken to my in-laws. My father-in-law instantly began reminiscing about his childhood. The hot summers in southern California, eating sun-kissed oranges.
These skewers could be served as a fun appetizer, or on a bed of white rice for a main dish. Another great thing about it, it uses a whole jar of marmalade.

Chicken Skewers with Sweet and Spicy Marmalade
Makes 6 servings



1 lb boneless skinless chicken breasts (if they are very thick cut in half like cutlets)
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon butter
1 jalapeño pepper and minced
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 (18-ounce) jar orange marmalade
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed


Special equipment: 12 wooden skewers soaked in water for 20 minutes



For the chicken, Pat chicken dry and cut lengthwise into 12 pieces. Place in resealable plastic bag. Combine soy sauce, olive oil and garlic in a nonreactive bowl and pour into resealable bag. Seal and massage slightly with your fingertips. Let marinade for 20 minutes to one hour. Drain chicken and pat dry. Preheat broiler.
Thread chicken on to skewers in an S shape and season with kosher salt and pepper. Place on a baking sheet and position oven rack in its highest position. When preheated, place tray in oven and cook skewers for 2-3 minutes per side.


For the sweet and spicy marmalade, Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add pepper cook until soft. Add ginger, and cook 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to medium-low, and stir in marmalade, lime juice, salt and orange juice concentrate. Simmer 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
Baste chicken with sweet and spicy marmalade and serve with white rice, or as an appetizer. 

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Memories

When I was growing up, my exposure to different kinds of vegetables was, shall we say, severely limited. We subsisted on the same parade of veggies: canned corn, canned green beans, raw carrot sticks, a frozen veggie mix that included lima beans (much to the dismay of my siblings and me), and occasionally lettuce in the rare form of a salad or on a sandwich. Now, don’t get me wrong. I had tried many different vegetables: Stringy celery with peanut butter, a dull-colored, limp, steamed broccoli, frozen corn on the cob that had been drowned in a bath of butter. One time my mom made steamed zucchini. It was limp and waterlogged and it kind of tasted like earwax. She actually didn’t make us finish that.
I tried canned spinach that my grandpa made, and carrots that had been cooked with honey and raisins. By this point, I had pretty much decided that I liked vegetables: Canned corn and canned green beans. Just about everything else I had tasted was bland and overcooked or smothered in something I didn’t like.
When I was five or six, I would get the salad bar when my family went to Sizzler. My parents thought it was hilarious. I really like salad. We never seemed to have it at home and I thought the wonderful buffet of bacon flavored bits, canned pineapple, black olives and cut up ham pieces was divine. It was a delightful experience to create your own masterpiece. When I became a teenager I started cooking meals for the family once every week or two. I really enjoyed it. I remember my first: mom’s turkey meatloaf, baked potatoes and salad.
My mom had always taught me that every meal needs vegetables to balance out the plate. She would buy flats of canned corn or green beans from Costco so those were the usual accompaniment to a meal. That or the very rare salad. I actually preferred salad, and if I was the one cooking I would load it with tomatoes, carrot shreds, olives and shredded cheese.
As I came into my teen years I enjoyed cooking more and more. My cream cheese pumpkin roll became a staple at church potlucks and I began to bake lemon meringue pies, pumpkin pies (from actual pumpkins that I cooked), pumpkin bread and an orange meringue pie that was my own creation. I began experimenting with foods more and more and making up my own recipes for things.
It was at this crucial point that I discovered an intense pleasure overwhelmed me when I went to the store and saw the produce aisle. There were so many things I had never tried and, to me, looking at the stunning rainbow of fresh fruits and vegetables was like looking at the myriad of colors offered at an art supply store. My mind went so many places at once.
I loved loading those lightweight plastic bags with tomatoes, lemons, oranges and other similar fare. I didn’t venture too far, I was a little intimidated by things I wasn’t familiar with, and I had no idea how to cook any vegetable from its fresh state. I didn’t really progress much farther in my cooking experimentation until I got married. At just twenty we settled down into our little nest and different vegetables started making their way onto our table.
I think we had two different kinds of vegetables in addition to salad the first time we had my parents over for dinner. I started with a bamboo steamer that was given to me as a wedding gift and loaded it with vegetables. I simply dressed broccoli and carrots with salt and pepper and actually enjoyed eating them. My husband is a great sport and even though he declared he wasn’t very fond of vegetables, he soon began finishing his servings and asking for more.
My next big task was green beans. I remembered eating Thanksgiving dinner with friends and a woman had cooked who was a food editor for Sunset magazine. She made these green beans that had bacon and red onions in them and they were out of this world. I decided that I was going to make green beans that rivaled my memory of hers.

I tried a few different things, and, honestly, they were good to start with. Sautéed in bacon grease and braised in chicken stock, they were garlicky, still a little crunchy and absolutely delicious. How could I go wrong? I have made many variations and they have all been a hit with my family. I have to admit, I am a little leery of straying too far because, let’s face it, how could they get much better?
I have added several other vegetable recipes to my repertoire, some that were bestowed by somebody’s grandma (like Parsley carrots-so easy but out of this world!) and some that were discovered in magazines and cook books.
Whenever spring’s first offerings begin making their way to the produce aisle I get giddy with an excitement that is usually reserved for children around Christmas time. When I look at the gleaming plethora of fresh, perfectly ripe vegetables, I fantasize about new recipes and different combinations. I can’t wait to rush home and make roasted asparagus with tomatoes and bacon, my special green beans or simple new potatoes with butter. In the summer, fresh corn with lime, butter and cayenne pepper finds its way to our table almost once a week and my freezer begins to fill with fresh picked blackberries and strawberries, awaiting their transformation into jewel-toned jams or pancake toppings.
In summer, the Famer’s Market comes to our city and California’s Central Valley offers a stunning array of vegetables, fruits and nuts that are grown within this area of our state. Perusing the fresh zucchini, yellow summer squash, huge bunches of fragrant basil, rosy red tomatoes, crisp green beans, red and yellow onions, and heady garlic, I want to buy bunches of everything. This is the time of year I make pesto, and freeze it for later use. There are also tantalizing pickles of all kinds, roasted and flavored nuts, honeys, preserves and dressings that inspire and delight.
Even in late September, when the first, bright orange pumpkins, sweet butternut squash and garnet yams make the scene, to announce that autumn is truly here, regardless of what the calendar says, my mind runs wild thinking of soups, breads, desserts and muffins.
My fridge and freezers fill up with cooked pumpkin, shredded zucchini and butternut squash, and my fridge holds a store of broccoli, the years last asparagus and of course carrots, celery and green beans. Different lettuces crowd my produce drawer and tomatoes, apples and citrus sit in bowls on the counter and there is a special section of my kitchen for red potatoes, russet potatoes and onions.
One place stays free of vegetables, though.
My pantry.

Green Beans with Bacon


Serves 4

I TBS Bacon Grease

2 Slices Bacon

1 lb. green beans, trimmed and cleaned

¼ cup finely chopped shallot (or red onion)

2 cloves of garlic, minced

½ cup chicken stock, homemade preferred

1 tsp freshly ground coarse black pepper

Salt to taste

Melt bacon grease in a large, heavy bottomed saucepan over medium high heat. Cook bacon pieces until crispy. Remove from pan, reserve. Add green beans, shallot and garlic, tossing to coat with bacon grease and brown lightly on all sides. Raise heat to high. Just as the beans begin to darken, add chicken stock and immediately cover. Continue cooking until most of the liquid has been absorbed, around five minutes. While the beans are cooking, chop the bacon into small pieces, reserve. Removed lid, toss beans in remaining liquid, add the bacon, black pepper, and salt to taste. Continue tossing until there is about two tablespoons of liquid left in the bottom of the pan. Serve immediately.



Variations: Add 5 oz. chopped mushrooms when you raise the heat to high

Add a half a chopped tomato after the beans have finished cooking (adds beautiful color!)

Drizzle a little balsamic vinegar at the end for a zesty flavor

Add ¼ cup orange or lemon juice with the chicken stock and reduce the chicken stock to ¼ cup. Add the finely grated zest of the fruit at the end and a ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes

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